Is Your Laser or Cosmetic Treatment Making Melasma Worse?

Is Your Laser or Cosmetic Treatment Making Melasma Worse?

By Dr. Heather Jenkins, Cosmetic Physician | Expert in Melasma Treatment | 20 Years of Experience | Medical Director The Skin Lab Brisbane

If you’ve been treating your melasma with laser or cosmetic procedures and noticed your pigmentation darkening or becoming more stubborn, you’re not alone. While advanced treatments can be highly effective in managing melasma, not all lasers or cosmetic procedures are suitable for this complex condition. In some cases, the wrong treatment approach can worsen melasma, making it more difficult to manage in the long run.

At The Skin Lab Brisbane, we specialise in evidence-based, safe, and effective treatments for melasma. In this guide, we’ll uncover:

• Why some laser treatments can make melasma worse
• The best laser and energy-based treatments for melasma
• Which cosmetic procedures to avoid if you have melasma
• Expert tips on how to safely manage and treat melasma long-term

Why Can Some Laser and Cosmetic Treatments Worsen Melasma?

Melasma is a pigment disorder triggered by excess melanin production, often aggravated by heat, inflammation, and UV exposure.

Certain cosmetic treatments, particularly heat-based and aggressive resurfacing procedures, can:

• Overheat the skin, stimulating melanocytes (pigment-producing cells) and worsening pigmentation
• Trigger post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), making melasma more difficult to treat
• Disrupt the skin barrier, leading to increased sensitivity and pigment retention

In Brisbane, where high UV exposure is a daily reality, choosing the right treatment is crucial to prevent worsening pigmentation and ensure lasting results.

Which Laser and Cosmetic Treatments Can Make Melasma Worse?

Melasma can occur anywhere, but living in Queensland significantly increases your risk due to intense year-round sun exposure.

1. IPL (Intense Pulsed Light)

• Emits broad-spectrum light, generating significant heat, which can stimulate melanocytes and worsen melasma
• A safer alternative is Pico laser, which targets pigment with ultra-short pulses instead of heat

2. Ablative Laser Resurfacing (Traditional CO2 & Erbium Lasers)

• Traditional ablative lasers remove the top layers of skin to resurface pigmentation, but the inflammatory response can trigger more melanin production
• A safer alternative is CO2 CoolPeel, a fractional CO2 treatment with reduced thermal damage

3. Fraxel Laser (Traditional 1550nm and 1927nm Wavelengths)

• Fraxel penetrates deep into the skin, generating intense heat that can aggravate melasma instead of improving it
• A safer alternative is Moxi laser, a gentler non-ablative fractional laser which can be tailored in intensity for melasma-prone skin

4. Aggressive Chemical Peels

• High-strength peels can cause excessive skin irritation, leading to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and making melasma more stubborn
• A safer alternative is gentle, low-strength peels like mandelic acid or tailored depigmentation peels

5. Microneedling with RF (Radiofrequency)

• The heat from RF energy can trigger excess pigment production in melasma-prone skin
• A safer alternative is traditional microneedling without RF, used with melanin-inhibiting serums

Which Laser and Cosmetic Treatments Are Safe for Melasma?

At The Skin Lab Brisbane, we offer evidence-based treatments that safely target melasma without triggering further pigmentation.

1. Pico Laser (Pico Genesis)

• Uses ultra-short pulses of energy, breaking up pigment without generating excess heat
• Specifically targets melanin clusters
• Minimal risk of overheating the skin
• Stimulates collagen for overall skin rejuvenation

2. CO2 CoolPeel (Fractional CO2 with Minimal Thermal Damage)

• Unlike traditional CO2 lasers, CoolPeel delivers precise resurfacing without excessive heat
• Reduces stubborn melasma pigmentation
• Improves fine lines, skin texture and tone
• Requires less downtime than traditional CO2

3. Moxi Laser (Non-Ablative Melasma Treatment)

• A low-energy fractional laser designed to target pigmentation without causing heat-induced damage
• Gently improves melasma, uneven skin tone, fine lines and texture
• No significant downtime
• Safe for all skin types, including darker tones

4. Low-Strength Chemical Peels (Mandelic Acid, Azelaic Acid, and Depigmentation Peels)

• Mild, melanin-inhibiting peels gently exfoliate without triggering inflammation or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
• Encourages even skin tone and cell renewal
• Reduces melanin production at a cellular level

Essential Aftercare: How to Prevent Melasma from Returning

Even with the right treatments, melasma requires ongoing maintenance to prevent recurrence. These strategies can help:

• Wear SPF 50+ daily – Sun exposure is the number one trigger for melasma, especially in Queensland
• Use melanin-inhibiting skincare – Ingredients like hydroquinone, tranexamic acid, niacinamide, and vitamin C help prevent pigmentation from returning
• Avoid excessive heat – Steer clear of saunas, hot yoga, and intense heat exposure, which can trigger melanin production
• Commit to regular treatments – Periodic laser sessions, chemical peels, and prescription skincare will help maintain your results

Should You Stop Laser Treatments for Melasma?

Not all laser treatments are bad for melasma—the key is choosing the right approach. If you’ve had laser treatments that made your pigmentation worse, it’s crucial to:

• Stop treatments that cause excessive heat or inflammation
• Switch to clinically proven, melasma-safe lasers like Pico, CoolPeel, and Moxi
• Work with an experienced practitioner who understands how to treat melasma safely

At The Skin Lab Brisbane, we customise every melasma treatment plan based on skin type, pigment depth, and lifestyle factors, ensuring safe and effective results.

Book a Consultation at The Skin Lab Brisbane

If you’re struggling with melasma and want expert guidance on which treatments will work best for your skin, we’re here to help.

• Book a consultation for a personalised treatment plan
• Explore safe and effective laser treatments designed for melasma-prone skin
• Get expert advice on long-term melasma management tailored to Brisbane’s climate